The following article was published by the United States Humane Society.  You may access this article at:

http://www.hsus.org/pets/pet_care/our_pets_for_life_program/dog_behavior_tip_sheets/crate_training.html


If you like nothing better than coming home from a hard day's work and finding that your dog decided to "go" on the couch or use your favorite slippers as a new chew toy, then crate training isn't for you. But, if you're like most people, then using a crate to properly train your dog will be time well spent. Crate training takes some time and effort, but it is a proven way to help train dogs who act inappropriately without knowing any better. If you have a new dog or puppy, you can use the crate to limit his access to the house until he learns all the house rules—like what he can and can't chew on and where he can and can't eliminate. A crate is also a safe way of transporting your dog in the car or taking him places where he may not be welcome to run freely. If you properly train your dog to use the crate, he'll think of it as his safe place and will be happy to spend time there when needed.

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Selecting a Crate

Crates may be plastic (often called "flight kennels" or collapsible, metal pens. They come in different sizes and can be purchased at most pet supply stores. Your dog's crate should be just large enough for him to stand up and turn around in. If your dog is still growing, choose a crate size that will accommodate his adult size. Block off the excess crate space so your dog can't eliminate at one end and retreat to the other.

The Crate Training Process

Crate training can take days or weeks, depending on your dog's age, temperament, and past experiences. It's important to keep two things in mind while crate training: The crate should always be associated with something pleasant, and training should take place in a series of small steps. Don't go too fast.

Step 1: Introducing Your Dog to the Crate

• Place the crate in an area of your house where the family spends a lot of time, such as the family room. Put a soft blanket or towel in the crate. Bring your dog over to the crate and talk to him in a happy tone of voice. Make sure the crate door is open and secured so that it won't hit your dog and frighten him.
• To encourage your dog to enter the crate, drop some small food treats nearby, then just inside the door, and finally, all the way inside the crate. If he refuses to go all the way in at first, that's okay; don't force him to enter. Continue tossing treats into the crate until your dog will walk calmly all the way into the crate to get the food. If he isn't interested in treats, try tossing a favorite toy in the crate. This step may take a few minutes or as long as several days.

Step 2: Feeding Your Dog His Meals in the Crate

• After introducing your dog to the crate, begin feeding him his regular meals near the crate. This will create a pleasant association with the crate. If your dog is readily entering the crate when you begin Step 2, place the food dish all the way at the back of the crate. If instead your dog remains reluctant to enter the crate, put the dish only as far inside as he will readily go without becoming fearful or anxious. Each time you feed him, place the dish a little further back in the crate.
• Once your dog is standing comfortably in the crate to eat his meal, you can close the door while he's eating. The first time you do this, open the door as soon as he finishes his meal. With each successive feeding, leave the door closed a few minutes longer, until he's staying in the crate for ten minutes or so after eating. If he begins to whine to be let out, you may have increased the length of time too quickly. Next time, try leaving him in the crate for a shorter time period. If he does whine or cry in the crate, it's imperative that you not let him out until he stops. Otherwise, he'll learn that the way to get out of the crate is to whine, so he'll keep doing it.

Step 3: Conditioning Your Dog to the Crate for Longer Time Periods

• After your dog is eating his regular meals in the crate with no sign of fear or anxiety, you can confine him there for short time periods while you're home. Call him over to the crate and give him a treat. Give him a command to enter, such as "kennel." Encourage him by pointing to the inside of the crate with a treat in your hand. After your dog enters the crate, praise him, give him the treat, and close the door. Sit quietly near the crate for five to ten minutes and then go into another room for a few minutes. Return, sit quietly again for a short time, then let him out of the crate.
• Repeat this process several times a day. With each repetition, gradually increase the length of time you leave him in the crate and the length of time you're out of his sight. Once your dog will stay quietly in the crate for about 30 minutes with you out of sight the majority of the time, you can begin leaving him crated when you're gone for short time periods and/or letting him sleep there at night. This may take several days or several weeks.

Step 4, Part A: Crating Your Dog When Left Alone

• After your dog can spend about 30 minutes in the crate without becoming anxious or afraid, you can begin leaving him crated for short periods when you leave the house. Put him in the crate using your regular command and a treat. You might also want to leave him with a few safe toys in the crate. You'll want to vary at what point in your "getting ready to leave" routine you put your dog in the crate. Although he shouldn't be crated for a long time before you leave, you can crate him anywhere from five to 20 minutes prior to leaving.
• Don't make your departures emotional and prolonged, but matter-of-fact. Praise your dog briefly, give him a treat for entering the crate, and then leave quietly. When you return home, don't reward your dog for excited behavior by responding to him in an excited, enthusiastic way. Keep arrivals low key to avoid increasing his anxiety over when you will return. Continue to crate your dog for short periods from time to time when you're home so he doesn't associate crating with being left alone.

Step 4, Part B: Crating Your Dog at Night

• Put your dog in the crate using your regular command and a treat. Initially, it may be a good idea to put the crate in your bedroom or nearby in a hallway, especially if you have a puppy. Puppies often need to go outside to eliminate during the night, and you'll want to be able to hear your puppy when he whines to be let outside.
• Older dogs, too, should initially be kept nearby so that they don't associate the crate with social isolation. Once your dog is sleeping comfortably through the night with his crate near you, you can begin to gradually move it to the location you prefer, although time spent with your dog—even sleep time—is a chance to strengthen the bond between you and your pet.

Potential Problems

• Too Much Time In The Crate. A crate isn't a magical solution. If not used correctly, a dog can feel trapped and frustrated. For example, if your dog is crated all day while you're at work and then crated again all night, he's spending too much time in too small a space. Other arrangements should be made to meet his physical and emotional needs. Also remember that puppies under six months of age shouldn't stay in a crate for more than three or four hours at a time. They can't control their bladders and bowels for longer periods.
• Whining. If your dog whines or cries while in the crate at night, it may be difficult to decide whether he's whining to be let out of the crate, or whether he needs to be let outside to eliminate. If you've followed the training procedures outlined above, then your dog hasn't been rewarded for whining in the past by being released from his crate. If that is the case, try to ignore the whining. If your dog is just testing you, he'll probably stop whining soon. Yelling at him or pounding on the crate will only make things worse.

  If the whining continues after you've ignored him for several minutes, use the phrase he associates with going outside to eliminate. If he responds and becomes excited, take him outside. This should be a trip with a purpose, not play time. If you're convinced that your dog doesn't need to eliminate, the best response is to ignore him until he stops whining. Don't give in; if you do, you'll teach your dog to whine loud and long to get what he wants. If you've progressed gradually through the training steps and haven't done too much too fast, you'll be less likely to encounter this problem. If the problem becomes unmanageable, you may need to start the crate training process over again.

• Separation Anxiety. Attempting to use the crate as a remedy for separation anxiety won't solve the problem. A crate may prevent your dog from being destructive, but he may injure himself in an attempt to escape from the crate. Separation anxiety problems can only be resolved with counter-conditioning and desensitization procedures. You may want to consult a professional animal-behavior specialist for help.

©2002. Adapted from material originally developed by applied animal behaviorists at the Dumb Friends League, Denver, Colorado. All rights reserved.

Some very good crate training advice given but I have a question/concern. I just got a rat-terrier yesterday and she is only 7 weeks old. Of the 6 puppies to choose from she picked me out. The lady I got her from had all the puppies in a crate with newspaper in the bottom and food at one end. She said they all did very well with no problems but of course now Sophie is in a crate by herself and she whines. I can't leave her roaming the house by herself as I have a cat that has to adjust to this new member of ours. I just don't know what to do. Should I try the crate training advice given? I leave the house at 8 every morning for work, get home at 1 for an hour lunch and then back home at 5:30. How can I fit crate training in with that schedule. I tend to believe the whining is only because she isn't with the other puppies anymore but I don't want her to feel anxious at all. Please help. I have thought about letting her sleep in the bed with me at night so it doesn't seem like she is in the crate all the time, but given she is still such a little thing I am afriad that she may go to the bathroom in the bed.

Thank you, that schedule seems like something I can do. I did send a friend to check on her and maybe I can have her do it everyday for me for a while. I will keep posting on my updates with her but the information you provided was very helpful.

Hi crate training is the only way to go! Crickett was put in her crate for all night at the age of 2 months (before that she roamed the half bath at night, or when we were away from home...which is something you might want to consider, since you work?) and she did her business on the puppy training pads. But once she was put in her crate, she held it all night long (from 11:30 till about 5:30). Her crate is in the laundry room along with Whiskey's and Brandy's, we just started leaving her crate door open at night and now I find her in bed with Brandy (they are bosom buddies). Also we have a doggie door in the laundry room, which all three use whenever needed.

We also crate trained our other girls as well...we didn't get Whiskey until she was 6 months and Brandy after her first birthday. They all resisted in the beginning, but now when I go looking for them, they are usually in their crates...it's their 'safe haven'.

Good luck and enjoy your new little baby!

Thanks for the easy to understand crate training tips.  I'm rescuing a 2 year old Rat Terrier from the local shelter.  He's not "adoptable" because he's too fearful...skiddish.  They said he hadn't wagged his tail once since he's been there...about 10+ days.  After sitting in the kennel with him for long periods of time, I've not only seen his tail wag a couple of times, but he fell asleep on my lap for about an hour.  Awesome!  Hopefully bringing him home tomorrow or the day after.   I'm going to try the crate training techniques.  Luckily I work 5 minutes from here and can come home at lunch.  If anyone has anymore advice on re-training a frightened rt from unknown background, please let me know.  I want to provide a safe, comfortable home for both of us...i.e., save my carpet AND be fair to my new friend.  I LOVE THIS SITE!

First of all, welcome.  As a wise person told me recently, lots of times ratties get passed over in shelters because they are very social animals and do not do well in shelter environments.  Good for you for going the extra mile for that baby.  Post pics please!!!

Thanks, guys!  I feel supported all ready.  I'm sure we'll do fine.  My day job is middle school reading teacher in an "inner city" school with a lot of little "hard core" souls.  In other words, I've got a good handle on the "don't coddle cause their sad" thing down.  We focus on fixing the future...not pining the past.  With love and patience, "Karma" will adjust.  Named her Karma as I really had no intention of getting another pet until next summer...but walked through the "kill hall" at the shelter on a whim this week...feels like both of us are experiencing a little karma guidance.  Going crate, food, and toy shopping after work today and I hope to get him this evening.  Any suggestions on food, toys, crates, etc.  I'm sooo excited...can't wait to have him here!  I'll post pictures as soon as possible...sadly I don't own a camera   By the way, forgot to mention...he has really lavender dye stains on his chest and side...can't imagine what it's from...but that sort of cinched it for me as lavender is the color of wisdom and my favorite color...see...karma

What's a "KONG" and where do I find it?

Okay...Karma's home.  He's sleeping soundly in his crate.  No problems in the crate except for jumping out if given 1/2 a chance.  Shelter checkup showed no heartworms and they think the throwing up and bit of hairloss on her hip is stress related.  So I took her home today and we'll get her neutered later when he's calmer.  They could have done it in tomorrow a.m., but I couldn't stand to think of her miserable in that cement floor kennel with all the noise.

I'm curious, is it normal for him to not make a sound?  I haven't heard him bark or whine or any sound since I met him.  Could be a good thing in an apartment setting. 

He also wouldn't go to the bathroom.  FINALLY on our first walk, he  started out not moving...then slowly...slowly started exploring.  Found out he can run along side me and will stop on command and come on command (if no one else is around...then he just gets scared, tucks tail, and waits. 

Looking forward to seeing what we learn about each other tomorrow.  Wish I didn't have to go to work! 

ramontx

It's normal not to make a sound when they don't know how much love is coming at them and they have been without it...Ohhh ramontx, I don't know what to call you. I think Karma will do fine after some love and time. You mentioned that he hasn't wagged his tail much and he's been in the shelter for 10 days. Well, he's been waiting for YOU... OMG, he's going to come alive with every touch you give him. Please be assured you have rescued the most loving dog you could imagine. There are so many people here that will help you and make life with Karma more understandable. Please open your heart as much as you can for this little guy and you will be amazed what can happen...

Thanks for all the great advice.  Comforting to know I'm not alone in trying to bring love and and a sense of safety back to this little fella.  I have no doubt we're going to bring joy to one another...it's already beginning to happen.  He actually ran with his tail and head held hight and proud.  Looks like I'll be geting some exercise on the hike and bike trail near my house   Karma may succeed where others have failed to get me to be consistent on exercise!  He slept great in the crate all night.  Still won't eat or drink anything.  His stomach seems to still be upset...keeps throwing up...shelter said they couldn't find a reason and that it's probably stress.  I can totally understand...my tummy is the first thing to go awry when I'm upset.  We'll be visiting the vet soon for more thorough check-up and neutering.

All in all...he is such a sweetheart.  I think we both have a lot of love to give and finally someone who wants AND deserves it.  Karma...

BTW...my name is Ramona and we're in Austin, TX.